any help is welcome

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  • ninja420
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 173

    any help is welcome

    new video if you have any thoughts, Advice or input...hook a brother up.


    Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
  • BillyMack
    • Sep 2006
    • 310

    #2
    lookin' good, i commented on YouTube...but then i noticed you drop your left arm a lot (at :05 and :26) and favor your right a little...keep lefty up and and keep at it...

    Comment

    • Chris M
      Speed Bag Guru
      • Mar 2006
      • 750

      #3
      Like BillyMack said, you're more than ready to introduce the outward elbow strikes into your routine.

      After a FSP bring your hand up to your opposite ear and hit with your elbow going outward instead of downward. I find that the OES or outward elbow strike is much easier for me than a DES or downward elbow strike.

      I struggled with it for a long time then all of a sudden it all came to me. Just keep at it.

      Comment

      • ninja420
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 173

        #4
        this is exactly what I was looking for thanks...and can I have another please LOL I have been the elbows you are talking about and I havent come even close to getting them I will post a video of my trying them on this thread and mabey some one can tell me what im doing wrong

        Comment

        • Chris M
          Speed Bag Guru
          • Mar 2006
          • 750

          #5
          Originally posted by ninja420 View Post
          this is exactly what I was looking for thanks...and can I have another please LOL I have been the elbows you are talking about and I havent come even close to getting them I will post a video of my trying them on this thread and mabey some one can tell me what im doing wrong

          I'll try to explain it as best I can. I tried it for a long time and then all of a sudden when I was practicing one day I just did it.

          This is what I did:

          First of all, do this with the largest bag you have and hit it S L O W L Y.


          I'm recommending starting with your dominant hand because if you're like me, when hitting with your other hand it is a little more difficult. After you understand how to do it with your dominant hand, you can pretty quickly do it with your other hand.

          Do a FSP ' FCP with your dominant hand (lets assume it's the right hand). Right after you hit the bag, bring your right hand up below and past your left ear. You should have just enough time to hit the bag with your right elbow after it rebounds from the FCP.

          From there it's pretty easy to then extend your right arm and hit with the outside of your right fist after it rebounds from the right elbow hit. Shortly after that, you can then try extending your right hand under the bag as it rebounds and do a RSP or reverse straight punch.

          I could do these hits by themselves but I couldn't do them in a combination until one day it just all clicked and it worked.

          Keep at it, it will come to you, you're really close.
          Last edited by Chris M; 04-03-2007, 06:30 PM.

          Comment

          • jaguiler
            Speed Bag Guru
            • Jan 2007
            • 289

            #6
            Stain that pine board !!!

            English Chestnut from Minwax is a good color.... like an old gunstock

            Comment

            • Speedbag
              Author of the Speed Bag Bible, founder of speedbagcentral.com

              • Feb 2006
              • 7110

              #7
              Originally posted by ninja420 View Post
              this is exactly what I was looking for thanks...and can I have another please LOL I have been the elbows you are talking about and I havent come even close to getting them I will post a video of my trying them on this thread and mabey some one can tell me what im doing wrong
              You're fists are really coming along, very smooth and I really like your arm positions when linking front to back. You get them up nice, (although you do tend to drop the left. Hey, we all do...)

              For the "Outward" Elbows Strikes (OES), the key is understand the difference between it and the "downward" Elbow Strike (DES). The downward is obvious that is hits the bag coming "down", and the outward" is going to hit the bag by simple extending "outward" from the center of the body. The set up for this is what makes it easy. Chris M's direction were correct about bring the fist under the opposite ear, but I would also suggest you turn you torso as your arm comes across your body to help get the angle. YOU are a big guy, with a wide thick chest and thick arms. It is going to be hard for you to get into the ideal position due to your size. But the quick fix is simply rotate your body. As a matter of fact, from the basic stance set up position, without even moving your arms, simply turn your trunk (from the waist, with slight foot pivot..) until the tricep side point (on upper arm bone) of your elbow (start with dominant) is pointing at the bag. This position will work also, and you haven't even moved your arms. I find this helps for really big barrel chest guys with short arms.

              You can see the elbow strike positions here. notice my body turn on the outward.

              Here is a quick videoclip: O-DES ' ' ' D-DES of the Outward Double and Downward Double Elbow Strikes. (Double = 2 parts hit the bag in succession with one rebound in between. Just like a double punch, except the first hit is an elbow. )

              Here is another clip of the Outward-Triple Elbow Strikes (O-TES), with triple = three part hit with one rebound in between. It might be easier for you to think of an Outward Elbow + Front Double Punch.

              you can see these and a few others on the "speed bag combinations" link picture here.

              You're really doing well -and Chris M. is right, and one day you'll do it and really feel the move. and then it makes sense.

              and if you DO stain the board, fine.

              don't paint it grey.
              Speed Bag

              Put a little Rhythm in YOUR workout!
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              Comment

              • ninja420
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2007
                • 173

                #8
                Thanks a bunch Speedbag and ChrisM I now have a better understanding of what needs to be done. And as for the board jaguiler...I think your right it does look pretty plain. thing is I bang on it every day and now its getting cracks in it...what I plan on doing is getting another 36" board and glueing them togather with the grain going opposit directions. After that I will ither cut it down to 32" and stain it some beautiful color or leaving it the double decker 36incher and painting it kawasaki green

                Comment

                • jaguiler
                  Speed Bag Guru
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 289

                  #9
                  man - I only get a couple hours a week in lately.... my board hasn't cracked..... hmmm..... time to look for a new material I guess mine will be cracking soon then .... oh well.... maybe it has to do with the humidity content as well... I will try to oil mine a little and keep it from drying out... good to know that possiblity of cracking is there - I have not thought of that.

                  Comment

                  • Chris M
                    Speed Bag Guru
                    • Mar 2006
                    • 750

                    #10
                    Originally posted by jaguiler View Post
                    man - I only get a couple hours a week in lately.... my board hasn't cracked..... hmmm..... time to look for a new material I guess mine will be cracking soon then .... oh well.... maybe it has to do with the humidity content as well... I will try to oil mine a little and keep it from drying out... good to know that possiblity of cracking is there - I have not thought of that.
                    FYI, wood cracking is usually due to higher humidity, not drying out. Putting some kind of sealer on the board will prevent it. What happens is the board swells from the moisture causing the cracks. One way to prevent this is to let the wood properly cure in the location you're going to use it before doing the first cut when making the piece. If you seal the board with urethane or paint, it should prevent the problem. Note that stain by itself is not a sealer.

                    Depending on the wood, it can grown and shrink significantly. Oak probably does this the most. The denser woods (hard rock maple, cherry, hickory, etc) don't absorb as much moisture.

                    I've made more than my share of antique reproduction furniture and I always let the wood cure (after kiln drying) in my shop for a week or more before doing any work at all.

                    Comment

                    • ninja420
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2007
                      • 173

                      #11
                      yep my board cracking where its glued together. Im shure its from that huge bag I have and the fact I have a neighbor that pisses me real bad! So Im hittomg that thing as hard and fast as I possibly can. But once I glue and screw the 2 boards together with the glue seams going different directions It should be hard as a rock.

                      Comment

                      • Chris M
                        Speed Bag Guru
                        • Mar 2006
                        • 750

                        #12
                        Originally posted by ninja420 View Post
                        yep my board cracking where its glued together. Im shure its from that huge bag I have and the fact I have a neighbor that pisses me real bad! So Im hittomg that thing as hard and fast as I possibly can. But once I glue and screw the 2 boards together with the glue seams going different directions It should be hard as a rock.
                        If you're not using a sandbag, it will help lower the vibration which will also help preserve your board.

                        Also, make sure to not clamp too tight or screw it too tight before the glue dries. It is a common mistake when clamping two boards glued together and it will actually starve the joint of glue making it weaker. You want the glue to just seep out when you clamp it, not squeeze too much of it out. J

                        Just passing along my experiences in woodworking...

                        Comment

                        • ninja420
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 173

                          #13
                          yep good info. I didnt make this one though, home depot did LOL Heres a new video I bet you guys have fun with this one....


                          Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

                          Comment

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