Mounting platform on brick/stone

[JayLee]

Hi!
I just sent a pm to Chris M about it, it looks like he has the setup that I need, but I just want to hear other opinions as well.
I just got an I-box platform and I was going to install it into regular wall, on the second floor of the townhouse.
The thing is that my wife started complaining that whole thing will tear a wall a part, I didn't think it would be possible, but just to be sure I want to get an opinion from someone else.
Do you think it will be better to put it in the garage into cinderblock wall ?
How hard would it be ? The thing is that this wall separates my garage from neiborghs, since it is townhouse and I do not want to hear a lot of complaints from them, I would like to find out all of the information before I proceed :)

Thanks in advance,
Jay

[Speedbag]

..Do you think it will be better to put it in the garage into cinderblock wall ? ...The thing is that this wall separates my garage from neiborghs, since it is townhouse and I do not want to hear a lot of complaints from them Thanks in advance, Jay

If it is a typical hollow sheetrock wall with 2x4 studs, then I would say YES, put it in the garage. Put some wooden runners up either horizontally or vertically (http://www.speedbagcentral.com/ssp/speed_bag_setups#A) to help support it, protect the wall surface and buffer some of the vibration.

I haven't had any luck attaching a unit to a normal household sheetrock wall and having "quiet" in the next adjoining room.

[JayLee]

Wow, that was a fast reply, thank you.
Well, I have an end unit, so if I will put it on the second floor on the typical wall, I'm not worrying that it will bother my neighbors, my only concern is that studs will simply not be able to hold it and it will come crashing down taking a piece of the wall with it.
But in the garage, the only brick surface is the wall between me and my neighbor garage, so I do not know how much of the noice he will hear.
It looks simple enough to mount using Tapcon screws.

[ninja420]

if you hit the studs you will be fine just drill your holes with a 1/4 bit first and attach with 3/8 lag bolts.

[Chris M]

I did respond to your PM last night around 9:30 and I also sent the response to the yahoo email acount you provided.

However, everything in the above posts already covered it.

Let us know if we can help.

Chris

[JayLee]

Thanks guys,
It is better to be safe , than sorry:D
Chris, I got your pm, I'm not sure yet where I will put it yet.
I guess I will try to do it in the garage, there is just so much junk that needs to be cleaned first.
Chris, what did you use to drill the holes in the brick wall for it, how deep ?
I understand that you were using 4" -1/4 Tapcon screws.
Regards,
Jay

[Chris M]

Thanks guys,
It is better to be safe , than sorry:D
Chris, I got your pm, I'm not sure yet where I will put it yet.
I guess I will try to do it in the garage, there is just so much junk that needs to be cleaned first.
Chris, what did you use to drill the holes in the brick wall for it, how deep ?
I understand that you were using 4" -1/4 Tapcon screws.
Regards,
Jay

I used a masonry bit. If I'm not mistaken, my tapcon screws were 3/8" in diameter so I used a 1/4" masonry bit with my hammer drill to drill the hole. You'll want to get a masonry bit that is one size smaller than your tapcon screws to drill the pilot hole. Most of the time the package will tell you what size masonry bit you need. There are packages out there that have the proper size masonry bit included with the tapcon screws. Also FWIW, I prefer the tapcon screws that have bolt heads on them instead of the screw heads because it's easier for me to install them nice and tight with a socket set than a screw driver or cordless drill because once the cordless drill jumps out, it's very very difficult to get the screw tight once it's boogered up just a little bit. Once it does that, I back the screw right out and start over with a new screw.

Note that if you have cinder blocks they are hollow inside. Most of the time the walls are only about 1" to 1 1/2" thick so you'll need two inch screws at the max. Make sure you get screws that are threaded all the way to the head when putting them in cinder blocks. I was putting mine in very old brick which can get quite soft, especially in a basement where the walls frequently get wet which is the reason why I wanted to go in as far as possible to prevent them from pulling out or loosening up.

[eoneel]

I just got an I-box platform. I installed it into a 12 inch concrete wall with some 2 1/2" parasleeve anchors with my hammer drill just like Chris M did. On the adjusting rails I did'nt go through the first hole, I felt like going through the second set of holes might make it a bit more solid. I put some sand bags on the top like Chris suggested and I gotta tell ya, It is one solid unit. I mean this thing is solid. I put up some sound foam around the walls of the unit to cut back on the reverb of the bag hitting the platform even more, and it is a nice muffled punchy sound. I will post some pictures up of it as soon as I can. This platform is a beast!

[Chris M]

I'm glad you're happy with it. I know mine is solid as a rock too!

[JayLee]

Well, I went to local Home depot, but they did not have 3/8 tapcon, so I decieded to just do it in the room, see pictures attached.
My wife said, that she will post a video on this forum of me being thrown out through the gapping hole in the wall from the second floor, if piece of the wall will come down:)

[Speedbag]

Well, I went to local Home depot, but they did not have 3/8 tapcon, so I decieded to just do it in the room, see pictures attached.
My wife said, that she will post a video on this forum of me being thrown out through the gapping hole in the wall from the second floor, if piece of the wall will come down:)

If it's in the studs I don't think there's much chance of that. It looks pretty lightweight, (light guage steel, small board) but it's a very nice looking unit. I had a similiar unit on an inside bedroom wall for years with no problems.

Good Job.

[Chris M]

Looks great, now put a sandbag on top. Trust me, it does make a difference!

[jaguiler]

that is a nice clean white wall - it would be a shame to break it... :p

wait till you have kids - your walls and floors will be a mess..... your wife will get over it soon enough... still waiting for my wife to stop being so fanatical over hte wood floors.... she sweeps them everday - heaven forbid there be a bread crumb on them for more than 2 minutes.

[JayLee]

Alan, yes it's in the studs, looks very sturdy, so hopefully it will be ok, Chris since it is my bedroom as well I will wait to see how it will perform before putting sandbag on the top.
jaguiler,As for kids, funny that you should mention that, I have 4 :) , the reason why this room is still looks clean, cause I have a lock on the door;)
Also, quick question guys, there are 2 rubber bumpers on the bottom of the main support frame to help reduce vibration, but if you will look at my pics that these are no where near my drum, so how do these help ? Did I assemble something wrong, or is it in case I will want to use bigger diameter drum with it ?

[Chris M]

Alan, yes it's in the studs, looks very sturdy, so hopefully it will be ok, Chris since it is my bedroom as well I will wait to see how it will perform before putting sandbag on the top.
jaguiler,As for kids, funny that you should mention that, I have 4 :) , the reason why this room is still looks clean, cause I have a lock on the door;)
Also, quick question guys, there are 2 rubber bumpers on the bottom of the main support frame to help reduce vibration, but if you will look at my pics that these are no where near my drum, so how do these help ? Did I assemble something wrong, or is it in case I will want to use bigger diameter drum with it ?

I noticed the exact same thing on my setup so I don't think you did anything wrong. I think it's there in case the board flexes to prevent contact with the mounting arms.

I have planned on taking an old mouse pad and cutting it into 1" wide strips and loosening the drum and wedging them in there in double thicknesses to tighten things up a bit. It may not make any difference at all, but I want to see if it does.

[SupergeZ]

are all your walls woden over there in the us? i mounted mine to an outer brick wall in my room using long screws and rawl plugs and it started coming away from the wall within the 1st week, now its hanging right off and pretty much useless

only other way 2 hang it my dad said would be to use rawl bolts but he said they wud probably shatter the bricks! god knows wot im gona do tbh any suggestions?

im pretty sure theres an air gap between the inner and outer wall aswell so not much to hang on to

[Chris M]

are all your walls woden over there in the us? i mounted mine to an outer brick wall in my room using long screws and rawl plugs and it started coming away from the wall within the 1st week, now its hanging right off and pretty much useless

only other way 2 hang it my dad said would be to use rawl bolts but he said they wud probably shatter the bricks! god knows wot im gona do tbh any suggestions?

im pretty sure theres an air gap between the inner and outer wall aswell so not much to hang on to

I don't know what rawl bolts are, but if you're installing something in brick, you need to get some Tapcon screws or something similar. I don't know if they have Tapcon screws in your area or not. Your best bet is to go to a hardware store and ask a knowledgeable clerk what his suggestions are. Make sure you know how deep the bricks are. You'll need to pre-drill the holes before installing the screws with a masonry bit. If you have access to a hammer drill, it makes drilling into bricks and concrete much easier.

They also make anchors that can be installed into the walls and they expand when you put the screws into them and tighten them down. I've never used them myself, but I know they work well also. I just opt for Tapcon screws because they are easier and more foolproof than the anchors.

Here's a link to the Tapcon screws. I've used them on four speed bag set ups with no problems whatsoever. http://www.confast.com/products/tapcon-concretescrew.aspx?gclid=CNbS7aKl_IsCFQlQWAodnn42b Q

Also, make sure you find out if your walls are actually solid brick or if they are cinder blocks which are hollow inside. Generally speaking, bricks are reddish and cinder blocks are gray concrete. If they're hollow cinder blocks, you only need to have the screws go into the brick an inch and a half or so, and make sure the screws are threaded all the way from the tip to the thread. If going into brick, you can go from two to four inches.

[SupergeZ]

thanks for the info chris... i think im using those anchors that you speak of atm, you push them into a pre drilled hole and as you screw into them they expand, but they didnt hold 2 good...

will go to the diy store and ask if they know anything about tapcon screwes, they sound good. ive decided 2 scrap my currect setup and start gathering the stuff to build a new 1. then use those tapcon screwes to secure it if i can get any

thanks again for the info chris, hopefully my next setup will last a little longer! :)