Vertical Baggin' - Bag Height

[paranday]

That's what I did, but you could try it the other way.

[Bag-A-Holic]

I was refering to, the constant metal on metal noise(that most people love the rythme of, and I used too, until I hurt my ear in an accident), of the metal eye hook hitting the metal base.


The back of the ball, hitting the drum? I thought that would just happen if you caught the bag underneath, and hit the bag on an upward angle? Which I'm guessing would happen more often than not, if the bag was higher than the recommended height. Would just lowering the bag possibly help aleviate that portion of it? Then again, there are baggers who prefer higher or lower heights.

-Anthony

[AugustChief]

Bag is level between my mouth and nose. I had a much better speed baggin' rhythm and my drum rarely struck the drum with my Everlast Pro Swivel. I switched due to Alan Kahn's speed bag bible DVD/training.

I'm sure it's due to my inexperience.

[paranday]

The metallic noise of the ball hook is amplified when the base of the swivel is directly attached to the particle board drum of the Balazs iBox. You might still not like the sound level, but it quiets down considerably in my experience. Can't speak about other platforms, just that one.

[Bag-A-Holic]

Originally Posted by paranday

The metallic noise of the ball hook is amplified when the base of the swivel is directly attached to the particle board drum of the Balazs iBox. You might still not like the sound level, but it quiets down considerably in my experience. Can't speak about other platforms, just that one.

Oh thanks, now I follow what your saying, and it makes perfect sense to me now. I'm looking for any all all ways to reduce noise and will certainly add this to my list of tricks.

If the metal hits the metal, or any hard material for that matter, and has only one hole, for this, the one where the ball is, to escape, it creates a loud noise. But, it would be much quiter if it had more areas to escape. Which I gather putting the rubber grommets you speak of, one on each of the 4 corners, would allow this to happen.

Kinda like a guitar, when you strum the stings, the noise only leaves out the one hole and you can hear it clearly. Now, make a bunch of holes in the back of the guitar too, and then strum the strings, I dont think you will hear much anymore?

Was this a proper analogy?

-Anthony

[paranday]

I'm no engineer, but am thinking the rubber helps stop the transmission of vibrations through the "speaker" -- the relatively thin particle board drum.

I'm excited about the thick end grain butcher block drums being discussed at this forum lately, what kenk wrote the other day caught my attention, and am waiting now to hear the results you guys get. Solve the noise in apartment problem and you open things up for the many who can't bag indoors due to their living arrangement.

[Zaza]

Ear plugs! ...or any ear protection might be a good idea? I love to shoot (shotguns) and wouldn't ever shoot without ear protection. I did that ONCE and my ears were ringing for a few days!

...which reminds me, I need to make some more wax slugs....

[Bag-A-Holic]

Originally Posted by paranday

I put a rubber grommet between the drum and swivel at each screw hole of the Powermill and it quiets right down.

I wanted to ask what thickness rubber grommet you used or recommend? Also do you tighten the swivel just snug or really make it tight?

Another question, do you think it would be benificial to have it raised by the rubber grommets at each corner only, and leaving space between platform and swivel, and able to breath on all four sides, or maybe 1 large square piece of rubber(same shape as swivel, and place swivel on that and attach to wooden drum?

Originally Posted by paranday

I'm excited about the thick end grain butcher block drums being discussed at this forum lately, what kenk wrote the other day caught my attention, and am waiting now to hear the results you guys get. Solve the noise in apartment problem and you open things up for the many who can't bag indoors due to their living arrangement.

Everything has been officially ordered. Platform-Primefighter 400, 2-3 week lead time; the 24x24x6 End Grain Butcher Block, 3-4 weeks lead time; 24x24x1/4 steel reinforcement plate, should arrive Monday. Still need to decide what glue to use, to connect the steel plate to top Butcher Block with. Also what and how many coats of a clear coating I will use.(If I decide to put a finish on it at all)Not sure if a hard laquer finish will make it loader? Finally, need to decide how to drill the holes through the block for the swivel and the holes to mount to platform. I may not want to do it with a hand drill and risk not being a straght hole.

[ventanakaz]

Originally Posted by Bag-A-Holic

I wanted to ask what thickness rubber grommet you used or recommend? Also do you tighten the swivel just snug or really make it tight?

Another question, do you think it would be benificial to have it raised by the rubber grommets at each corner only, and leaving space between platform and swivel, and able to breath on all four sides, or maybe 1 large square piece of rubber(same shape as swivel, and place swivel on that and attach to wooden drum?




Everything has been officially ordered. Platform-Primefighter 400, 2-3 week lead time; the 24x24x6 End Grain Butcher Block, 3-4 weeks lead time; 24x24x1/4 steel reinforcement plate, should arrive Monday. Still need to decide what glue to use, to connect the steel plate to top Butcher Block with. Also what and how many coats of a clear coating I will use.(If I decide to put a finish on it at all)Not sure if a hard laquer finish will make it loader? Finally, need to decide how to drill the holes through the block for the swivel and the holes to mount to platform. I may not want to do it with a hand drill and risk not being a straght hole.

...suggestions : you can use construction adhesive to attach the steel plate to the drum but the adhesive is thick so you'll have to use a notched trowel to spread it evenly on the steel plate, as for drilling holes in the plate use a drill press, this will keep the holes straite when drilling through the steel plate, also use cobalt drill bits when drilling the steel plate and keep constant oil on the contact point between the drill bit and steel plate this will keep the bits sharper longer than dry drilling and will cut the steel faster...ralph